Sunday, September 16, 2018

A Bridge Too Far - Arnhem

Today I traveled to Arnhem on the East side of the Netherlands.  A two hour train trip and I was at the Arnhem Central Station getting information about several WWII museums in the area. Arnhem was the site of a famous WWII military operation, Operation Market Garden. From a historical perspective Market Garden was important for two reasons, first it is the largest airborne assault ever attempted and secondly it was the worst defeat of the Allied forces in WWII. 



There have been several movies about this battle, the most famous being "A Bridge Too Far" (1977).  It's a very long movie but there are a surprising number of famous actors in it.  There is another film, a documentary called "Arnhem: A Bridge Too Far". I watched both of these before I traveled to Arnhem.  If you do a You Tube search there are many more videos about Operation Market Garden and the Battle of Arnhem.



After the war the bridge was renamed The John Frost Bridge after the British commander who defended the bridge during the Battle of Arnhem.  The bridge has been destroyed and rebuilt several times during the war and while the center span is relatively new the original foundations remain.




I also went to Oosterbeek where I visited the Airborne Museum Hartenstein and the Airborne Cemetery. While the outside of the museum was being renovated and not much to see, the museum inside was great. 








The Museum is housed in the Villa Hartenstein which was originally a Inn built in 1728 and later used as the headquarters of the British Airborne Troops during Operation Market Garden.  It's hard to describe some of the parts of the museum, it's best to say they were somewhat "interactive".







In the bottom section of the museum they had what was called The Airborne Experience.  You enter the back of a British Glider and exit through the front where you find yourself in the city among military equipment, bombed out buildings and rubble. 






On the surrounding walls they are projecting actual footage of street to street fighting to give you a combat perspective.  There is a loud sound track playing with each video giving you 360 degrees of battlefield noise.




I also visited the Airborne Cemetery  it was a very somber place.  A quiet peaceful place to reflect on the cost of war.  While not as large as the Normandy Cemetery it was none the less a moving experience. 












Each headstone had the insignia of the division they fought with.











There is an annual ceremony where the residents place flowers and small crosses at each grave. 












Some of the small crosses are visible in the picture.  I wish the younger generation could understand the sacrifices these young men made.  They fought and died to save countries and people they never knew and they did it because it was the right thing to do.  They understood that the cost of freedom is paid by the loss of life.








Another unexpected sight was the support the current residents show for the Airborne soilders that fought to liberate them and defeat Germany.  Many of the houses fly the British Airborne Special Forces insignia.  Hundreds of the homes fly the insignia, it was an amazing show of support and admiration.








Some of the houses have plaques explaining the action that took place in and around that house














It truly was a sight to behold. Over seventy years have passed and people still expressing their never ending gratitude to the soldiers who risked everything to free them from German occupation.






Most of us living today have not suffered the horrors of living four years as an occupied country.  The people of Arnhem survived the first battles when they were taken captive and then another battle when they were liberated and several more when the battle lines moved back and forth. But what they do understand is their freedom was paid for by Allied troops that knew they were doing the right thing all the while knowing they might be sacrificing everything.  They never had a cushy Nike contract, I wish Colin Kaepernick understood what sacrifice really was.


TJ in Holland

4 comments:

  1. Wow, what a beautiful post! I love that this community is carrying on the tradition of honoring the sacrifices of their defenders, and that they're teaching their children to do the same.

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  2. Thanks for sharing. It is amazing that this is still remembered so many years later.
    Glenda

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  3. Glad you went. Beats the windmills and the hotel

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  4. I love reading about the bridge and seeing all the awesome pics you've shared. Excellent job as always !

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